Tag Archives: tallgeese

HG 1/100 Tallgeese

HG 1/100 Tallgeese

Obligatory front view.

HG 1/100 Tallgeese

Obligatory back view.

HG 1/100 Tallgeese

Close up of the head.

HG 1/100 Tallgeese

A close up showing the turbine-shaped detail up parts I used on the verniers.

HG 1/100 Tallgeese

Some action shots with its available armaments. The beam sabers are stowed behind the round buckler. The dober gun and buckler hang from the joints at the ends of the shoulder armour.

HG 1/100 Tallgeese

There is a handle at the back of the buckler allowing the Tallgeese to hold it. The magazine on the dober gun is removable.

HG 1/100 Tallgeese

Here are the unused parts for the Tallgeese III. The whip-like device is articulated at every link. They are made up of halves assembled sequentially, and they tend to show the seam line. The two extra shoulder armour pieces have slots in them and allow the extra strip of armour to attach on the outside. The heads are that of the Tallgeese III and II respectively. Lastly it’s the BFG the Tallgeese III uses. The barrel extends in length before allowing itself to split up and downwards. You can see how the colours are molded all wrong.

This is the first time I’ve painted an entire model and I’m relieved the flat Super Clear didn’t turn white and ruin it. I did have a hard time using the aqueous acrylic paint to do the panel lines though. Luckily there isn’t a need to make them very obvious as the primary colour of the model is white.

1/100 Tallgeese (part 2)

I have actually completed my 1/100 Tallgeese after 7 months of procrastination! However as I achieved that just a moment ago I haven’t had time to take pictures of it, though it won’t look very different from the ones I took last time.

The only work done on it since the last update is the pathetic attempt at doing the panel lines and a go at spraying flat all over the model. The results are much better than my previous attempts which always resulted in the model turning white. I guess the key to making it look alright is to go over it very fast and briefly. While spraying gloss requires the part to be wet, this does not apply when doing flat. Instead the part should just begin to show the flatness right away. If it looks wet, the coat is too thick and will almost certainly result in whiting.

Additionally, I gave the beam saber clear parts a coat of flat and the results were rather interesting to me. It’s almost like the airbrushed translucent blades the professionals do. Here’s a quick photo to show the result.

1/100 Tallgeese

The top blade is sprayed with flat while the bottom one is the stock unpainted version. I believe there are some people who prefer the blades to be clear instead of being translucent or almost opaque. I think it gives the blade a glowing appearance.

This may be the last time I’m taking photos using my old 2 megapixel camera. When my parents purchased the split air-con, there was an offer where we could buy a “Sony 7 Pixel Digital Camera” at $5 SGD. My brother made them fall for it in the name of sharing it with me (he already has a Sony Ericsson 5 MP Cyber-shot phone, probably a C902, not sure of the exact number). It turns out to be a Cyber-shot S750. Perhaps I’ll take a picture of it using the old camera as its final picture. I’m not sure what the difference will be though, apart from having to deal with obscenely huge images.

In other news, Akibahobby has photos of the upcoming SHF Momotaros Imagin DX Set as well as upcoming SHF Kabuto series Masked Riders from the Miyazawa Model Show 2008 (beware questionable content ie. lots of questionable female figurines).

SHF Momotaros Imagin DX Set

Upcoming SHF Merchandise

SHF Masked Rider Gatack has just been released in Japan. Time to lose more dough…

The absurd design of Masked Rider Decade has been confirmed in this magazine scan I stunned from SGCollect.

Image hotlinked from tinypic

Lastly on a model-related note here are a few prototype pictures of the GFF Metal Composite Zeta Plus. I believe it’s 1/100 scale and will cost a bomb as with all the other figures from the GFF line. However the Zeta Plus Hummingbird is just too cool to ignore, especially in its Wave Rider mode. It’s simply bursting with Katoki-ness and would look totally at home in a scrolling shootemup. If there were an MG model of it, I would snap it up right away.

Images hotlinked from amiami

1/100 Tallgeese (incomplete)

I am guilty of updating this blog very sporadically. I will make up for it by finally picking up my lazy butt to take a photo of my 1/100 Tallgeese which is still incomplete after over 7 months of procrastination.

1/100 Tallgeese

1/100 Tallgeese

While the painting is done, I have yet to do the panel lines when I took these 2 photos in the afternoon. I have begun to do them using Gunze Sangyo Aqueous Hobby Colour and failed miserably. When wet, I can do the panel-lining job, but when dry I can’t get rid of the excess paint unless I use thinner which I risk ruining the paint job underneath. Despite following my friend’s directions to use water with a little bit of soap which I concur, my problem is that I can’t do the job as easily as I could if I had been using my Mr. Colour paint. I had no choice but to sand the paint off with fine sandpaper, and even resorted to gently rubbing it off using thinner, which works really effectively.

Below are the steps I have taken to build the model since mid-April 2008. You can check out a detailed page I posted on my previous blog much earlier.

  1. Initial straight assembly of Tallgeese III
  2. Decision to switch to Tallgeese I
  3. Usage of putty to fix seam lines
  4. Failed attempt at trying to improve the horrible elbow joints and head articulation
  5. Sprayed Mr. Surfacer Gray on all parts
  6. Spray-painted white parts poorly, messed up the paint job by piling all of them in a pile
  7. Hand-painted black parts midnight blue
  8. Hand-painted all other parts (rooster crown, eagle emblem etc.)
  9. Re-did the paint job due to poor appearance and dust stuck all over the model and suspected mould growth
  10. Added details to vernier nozzles using Kotobukiya’s Detail Up Parts (you can just see the turbine-looking nozzle in the photo above. It originally was just an ugly hole exposing the mounting peg inside.)
  11. Sprayed Mr. Super Clear Gloss on most parts
  12. Broke the ankle polycap mounts on both legs (due to poor design) and fixed them by holding the polycaps in place using epoxy putty (unfortunately on one leg the polycap may fall out if I pull on it)
  13. Commenced panel-line painting
  14. Regretted not sticking an LED inside the head to light the visor (which is just a hole) up

My house isn’t a good environment for model-building. There is so much dust that sometimes it gets stuck to the parts before the paint even finishes drying, and I have to redo the paint job when it gets bad. Also I frequently work on it at night and it’s difficult to notice if any dust is stuck before doing the next step. Recently I obtained a clip-on lamp; I hope it helps to make things better. And I still have an unopened 1/100 Gundam Exia which I got for free waiting for me. I might even consider getting the 1/100 00 Gundam when it comes out at the end of this month even though I know an MG version will come out in the distant future. I am a total sucker for gimmicks like lights.

I foresee myself spending lots of dough on upcoming SHF figures. I am also tempted to buy the Revoltech Gurren Lagann toys after watching the awesome anime. Seriously, it’s one of the few shows that made me watch many episodes at one go because I couldn’t wait to watch the next episode (unlike Macross Frontier which I have still yet to finish watching).

This week has been pretty eventful as I have had driving lessons the past 3 days (Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday) and regimental duty on Friday. The same routine will await me next week. What made my Saturday suck was that I lost my internet access the whole day. My cable modem’s AC adapter had one of its prongs broken, and there isn’t an easy way to get a replacement.The metal prong got stuck inside the terminal socket on the multitap and my mum dismantled the socket just to take it out. In the process the switch parts popped out and she couldn’t figure out how to put it back in.

After I managed to do it, she wasn’t too positive that it would work as per normal despite my confidence. There are no shops selling individual AC adapters, not to mention finding one that would fit. The ISP doesn’t just sell cable modems as they require some kind of activation to work and I am very sure this would involve lots of paper work and red tape. Going to the service centre wouldn’t be easy as the modem is around 5 years old.

However I got pissed with the lack of internet access and my parents allowed the adapter to be jacked back into the power point and remain powered on 24/7 (we were made to turn the modem off every night), so now I am surfing the tubes like a man just out of jail trying to make up for lost time.

It’s really depressing when everyone’s about to move on to the next chapter of life while I’m trying to catch up from so far behind, hoping that the current one would end as quickly as possible.