Category Archives: other plastic models

LBX Odin Mk-2

I got this kit over a year ago and only painted it halfway before I had to move across Japan. After that I pretty much stopped messing around with these things for a long time. Recently I decided to finish up this guy and after several weeks of occasional marker painting, here it is.

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Hyper Function LBX Achilles Deed

Here’s a quick review for the Hyper Function LBX Achilles Deed. I built it straight out the box without painting or applying any stickers. It has many parts from the original Achilles which I didn’t manage to paint or review last year.

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A Get Post

2014-04-27 20.11.03Haven’t had one in a long time so here it is. This guy and the RG Exia came out yesterday. Was contemplating whether to get both but since most of my collection back home is 1/100 scale I went for this instead. Compared to other non-Hyper Function kits I’m expecting this guy to be no-paint-friendly, but I actually have a backlog of LBXes to paint with markers so maybe I might let this guy jump the queue.

Still I hope this line can continue and throw out some more popular designs.

LBX Achilles D9

Seeing how Bandai might be giving up on their awesome Hyper Function line by skipping Odin I decided to not to wait and just get the existing kits of whatever I wanted before they got discontinued instead of hoping for HF renditions. No WIP as I don’t have my airbrush with me.

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LBX Joker WIP 2

I initially decided to do an OOB build for the Joker considering how deep a hole I dug myself into when working on the Sazabi but its flaws were just too glaring for me to ignore. When I got tired of messing with the Saz I decided to mutilate this guy and see if I could make it a little bit better.

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Here’s a picture of the offending hip joint which I talked about previously. Like the other Strider Frame models the position of the hip ball severely restricts the articulation range of the legs. On my Joker the thigh cups are also incredibly loose so the legs fall off without effort. The knee is also unable to straighten completely so neutral standing poses look a bit weird.

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I removed the existing hip joint polycap and replaced it using the leftover polycaps from the Elysion and a pair of aftermarket ball-shaped double joints. This was a really slipshod job as I didn’t make any plans to implement the joints properly beforehand. The double joints peg into the hips and are halfway inside the existing thigh cups revealing the ball shapes at the hips. They look a bit odd but the trade-off is that they offer a much wider range of motion now. I also trimmed a little bit of material from the insides of the knees so that the legs can now straighten completely.

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I also decided to increase the range of motion for the waist joint by replacing the existing peg with a ball joint. This was done clumsily though – I gouged out material from the white lower waist piece and widened the existing hole recklessly so now it looks unsightly. I can patch up the mess completely if I leave the white bit permanently attached to the hips but it might be troublesome to paint later on. The peg in the torso has been replaced with a ball. As you can see in the picture it’s now possible to make the Joker assume a kneeling position.

Lastly I filled the hollow areas behind the Joker’s headdress, and made some slight changes to the chest. It’s pretty much ready to be painted now, and I’m thinking of painting it in the original colours. And now back to the mess that is the Sazabi…

LBX Joker WIP 1

I was really busy the past weekend and didn’t manage to upload a post on time. I got stuck in a rut while working on the Sazabi and decided to start on something else while thinking about it. Despite the amount of work required to get these little things to look decent I still went ahead and got the Joker as I liked its design. Here’s a quick snapfit of the thing.

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It’s from the first season of the anime and it has some issues, most of which are characteristic of the Strider Frame, the in-game name for this type of fast-hitting, lightly armoured character. The joints, especially those on the legs, are really loose. The legs themselves are prone to falling off the hip joints, which are also strangely designed, making it impossible to bring the legs together, or even spread them apart. I decided to rework the hip joints and improve the existing waist joint, but it took a bit of time before I could get everything fixed up and working, which I’ll post for the next WIP update.

Next mission(s)

Progress on the Saz has been slow as usual and didn’t warrant another update with just one picture. My pile of drafts is getting thin real fast too.

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Got the lot of these along with my Mystique statue. I’ve seen some nice mod work done on the Joker but I’m quite tied up with the Sazabi so I may just leave my Joker as it is. Can’t wait to build the Achilles as people have been showering praise for it. Wonder if they’ll give the other protagonist models the Hyper Function treatment as I think the Odin and Achilles D9 are quite cool designs too, but the Odin transforms.

The Custom Effect bags are essentially one-piece affairs so I’m not too keen on making reviews for them. Given how much work still needs to go into the Saz I’m kinda bummed to not be able to start on these guys.

LBX Elysion – Complete!

I skipped my WIP photo-taking towards the end and went right away to finishing up the kit. It’s been a long time since I’ve touched a kit smaller than an MG so in terms of motivation it was easier to get off my lazy butt and work on it as there were far fewer parts. The masking is a little more difficult than usual so some areas were hand painted instead ending in horrible results. Luckily due to the design of the kit they are in less commonly seen areas.


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LBX Elysion WIP 2

Realised it would be far less stressful if I actually did my airbrushing in a spray booth instead of spraying out the window so I sat down and constructed my booth. This time round without a laptop I have very little desk space so the booth is right behind me. Cramped conditions aside, I didn’t really take very detailed pictures as I painted the kit.

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Started off by shading the white parts. I like a subtle shade but I can never get it right and it’s always barely visible to the naked eye.

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I used red to shadow the orange parts. Still barely visible, but probably slightly better than the white parts.

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Some of the parts are masked in preparation for more colours. The shield is quite troublesome as the biggest part has four colours. Here I have masked the orange areas and for the other shield part on the lower right I have masked out the red area. The V-shaped piece is for the chest.

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The dark blue parts are freshly painted in this picture.

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More masking for the shield. The orange, blue and white areas have been masked and now it’s time to paint the remaining area blue-gray. The same goes for the shoulder parts.

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Since the instruction manual does not provide any colour or painting guide I have to literally refer to the box images as the manual itself does not show every single area of the kit. Here I just found out the back needs a little extra colour. In my haste to see the completed result I assembled the shield and halberd before I could do any shading on the blue-gray areas. I’ll see whether I can use smoke gray instead since it’s impossible to disassemble them now.

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The final colour to be painted is the dark gray inner frame colour. I’ve done some masking for the feet and hands.

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There are some small areas that I decided to hand paint because I was lazy to do really intricate masking, resulting in the sloppy results above. The hands had to be hand painted as my masking was just horrible. I was using the same jar of colour mix to hand paint the hands but for some strange reason I could not get it to be the exact same shade despite stirring for minutes, so the hands now look as if they have slightly different coloured hand armour.

The next step would be to top coat everything and prepare to paint the black areas/panel lines with a wash. I foresee a problem with the lower legs as some of the lines do not have clear recesses.