I was surprised to see that Danball Senki/Danbooru Senki was a more popular series than I had initially thought. I bought a kit recently and it had a mini-game that used the inside of the box and seemed interesting, so I thought maybe I could write a how-to post about the basic rules of the board game. Note that this is mostly a direct translation of the text in the box – please correct me if I have made any mistakes.
This game is different from the ones in the packages of LBX from Season 1 of the anime (Series No. 001 – 017), which is mostly a sumo wrestling-style game where you try to push your opponent out of the field. This is a turn-based fighting game.
Danball Senki D-Egg Custom Dice Battle: Basic Rules
Continue reading How to play the LBX board mini-game [Danball Senki]
Finally picking up the pace as I build the Delta Plus. This is probably a WIP Part 4 now. Today’s post won’t be digressing from the main topic so much as I’ll be talking about how I solved the problem of losing a part. Instead of giving up until the missing part magically reappeared I decided to do a recast. It’s quite well-documented on the internets but I took a few photos while I tried it out so I might as well do this post as a How-to. Finally a new guide.
Recasting parts isn’t terribly difficult but it’s a fairly time-consuming process because you have to wait several times for putty to cure. Additionally you can’t really mass-produce recast parts as the molds get damaged after use. Not every part can be duplicated as some are molded using special processes – I can’t really describe it but some parts cannot be recast due to their geometry.
Here’s a picture of the part which I lost. This is the other remaining one and luckily it’s symmetrical so I could recast it.
Epoxy putty was used to make a mold. Talcum powder was applied to prevent the part and putty from sticking together.
The other half of the mold was pressed. I made nicks on the edges as markings so that it would be a little easier to align the halves later on.
I waited about 24 hours for the putty to cure, then pried the halves apart and recovered the original piece.
Time to cast the part. Again, talcum powder was used to prevent the putty from sticking to the mold. Trying my best to align the halves, the mold was pressed and I removed excess putty that squeezed out the edges. Time for more waiting.
After around 24 hours I attempted to remove the part. Unfortunately I didn’t use enough powder so the part was stuck to the mold. Also my putty didn’t harden completely and the molds and recast part were still pliable. Might be due to its old age. Anyway, this was still better than having a missing part so I just made do with what I had.
After some trimming and sanding, the part finally could fit where it went. It was a bit challenging due to the tight tolerances of the parts though. Also it’s a tiny part so it shouldn’t be too obvious on the final completed kit.
There’s never a better time to slack than just before my mid-term exams.
Today while trying to concentrate and study I decided to expose the mono-eye of my MG Sinanju instead and this time I did it successfully. I then tried to replace the stock clear mono-eye with some better replacements. I’ve used this method on my previous kits which I briefly mentioned when I worked on my MG Z plus C1.
Continue reading Sinanju Mono-eye Mod
What better way to celebrate the end of exams with yet another how-to? This one is a quick one I did while I was slacking off before my exams.
Continue reading Candy toy/gachapon Gaiamemory LED mod
I’ve been idle for almost a month! School has been pretty tough with mid term tests during these two weeks, and I’ve been looking around for certain toys (specfically the SHF Ixa) but they’re sold out everywhere so I can’t put up any new content. However I did write a short post some weeks ago.
Due to popular demand (ha ha ha) from readers requesting how I fit an LED in one of my kits, here’s a short one on how it was done. I didn’t take proper in-progress pictures and the head was permanently stuck in one piece so I made the best out of what’s left. I did write a post when I was still building it. You get to see the ugly bits of the kit everywhere.
Continue reading Light-up Gundam Eyes
This one’s long overdue. I’m just going to go through how I added the rivets onto my Zaku. It’s a great way to detail a kit, but getting the right parts may be difficult for some.
Continue reading Add Detail to Your Kits Using Rivets
Since I wrote how I did the shiny pistons on my Zaku previously, I might as well write more how-to’s. This time it’s how I replaced the stock verniers with aftermarket aluminum thrusters on the Zaku’s backpack for more detail.
Continue reading Aftermarket Thrusters
Thought it’d be nice to share how I pulled off the smooth shine on the hydraulic pistons of my MG Zaku II, so this is my first how-to guide here. Too bad I didn’t spam enough pictures of the leg area despite loving how it turned out.
Continue reading Real-looking Hydraulics