MG 1/100 Delta Plus – Remodeling Explanation

As promised previously and customary for all my builds this post will cover everything I did on this kit. Didn’t have many before photos to do a good comparison since I didn’t really plan to do a post like this before I started.


keita-style main forehead camera. Replaced head vulcans with aftermarket metal equivalents. Sharpened antennae. Added panel lines on the sides and back, and vent grilles on the cheeks. The visor was painted with clear red on the outside; silver tape was cut to the shape of the eyes and applied on the inside of the visor.


Added panel lines and recesses to exterior panels. Bolt details on the back were added using aftermarket 0.8mm brass screws. They were also added onto other parts of the body.


Shoulder vents were remade using 0.2mm sheet styrene and 0.4mm grooved sheet. Additional minor details added on top of shoulders with 0.5mm strip styrene. Added panel lines/recesses and bolts. It’s not clear in the photo but I also added a gray area on top of the shoulders, closer to the shoulder joints.


Added recesses with 1.2mm metal detailing on front plate to look like apogee motors. Added fins to the sides and rear skirts using layered 0.4 and 0.2mm sheets. Added panel lines/recesses to exterior panels. Raised areas on the front and rear were done using 0.2mm sheet styrene.


Added raised details using strip styrene and Kotobukiya round molds on the upper thighs which were sanded down so that they had a lower profile and were flexible enough to conform to the surface. Panel lines scribed all over. Replaced power conduits on the back of the knees with aftermarket metal equivalents. Pistons on the shins were done using silver tape as usual. Raised areas on the feet were done using 0.2mm sheet.

Wing Binders

Scribed fairly extensive panel lines on the wings and binders. Additional detail on the leading edge of the wings were done using 0.4mm sheet styrene.


Panel lines, raised detail on shield. Grenades were detailed using Kotobukiya round molds. Added aftermarket parts to the gun barrel. Extra canard wings added on the shield using 0.4mm sheet. For the beam rifle, removed seam lines and similar detailing for the rifle barrel.


Just a bunch of photos laid out side by side.


  1. Initial assembly/dis-assembly back in March
  2. Sanding and nub mark removal
  3. Modification work (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)
  4. Priming with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, more sanding and priming
  5. Painted: white parts, inner frame, body gray, body blue, clear parts
  6. Recast missing part drama
  7. Gloss coat with Mr Super Clear Gloss UV Cut
  8. Panel lines and decal application (a mix of kit dry transfers, stickers and aftermarket generic markings)
  9. Flat top coat (Mr Super Clear Flat UV Cut)
  10. Attached all metal detail parts
  11. Final re-assembly

For the colour scheme, I kept to the original using my own mixes. Wanted to tone down the blue hue for the body but I didn’t want it to be completely gray either and ended up with a darker colour than I had initially wanted, but it wasn’t so bad since I could do some shading.

  • White: White
  • Inner frame gray: Neutral Gray + Black
  • Body gray: Neutral Gray + Cobalt Blue + White (adjusted ratio for pre-shade)
  • Body dark blue: Cobalt Blue + Black + Fluorescent Pink + Neutral Gray (I added too much pink so I used gray to tone it down)
    Post-shading was done on the dark blue areas and inner frame using Smoke Gray + Clear
  • Sensors: Clear Blue
  • Visor: Clear Red
  • Bolt detailing: Mr. Metal Color Chrome Silver over Black
  • Panel line wash: (T) Flat Black + (T) Neutral Gray, (T) Flat Black for dark blue areas

All colours used are Mr. Color unless specified: T = Tamiya Enamel X- series

My longest project yet, at almost 4 months long and not including the initial month-long assembly which I did in March to satisfy my plamo craving. It seems that with each successive kit I take a longer time to complete. For this guy most of the time was spent doing the modifications which I weren’t skilled at and had to make many corrections. Decided to do the ‘traditional’ stuff so no fancy things like LEDs or Hyaku-Shiki-style metallic colours. Attempted to shade the kit fully but the outcome was too subtle to be noticeable. Sigh…

As for what I learned from this project, the greatest lesson was not to be stingy, especially when it comes to things like supplies. If you think your blade isn’t sharp, just switch to a new one. If your dropper starts leaking, just use a new one. If your tape isn’t sticky, just use some new tape. I realized I was really stingy when it came to stuff like this and it was more detrimental than beneficial. In terms of modeling skills, I attempted to shade the kit fully, gained some experience with scribing, sticking pla-plates, recasting parts and making my own parts out of sheet styrene.

On to the same announcements I make all the time – those of you who have been reading my blog will know I already have the MG Astray RFKai queued, but I’m in my final senior year and just like I didn’t have a proper summer vacation I will not have a proper winter break due to all sorts of rubbish associated with being a fourth year Honours student. So, no guarantees as to whether I can do something then. And knowing that I take an incredibly long time to finish kits now, I’m less optimistic.

As for the toy aspect of my blog, while I have slowed down with the typical figma/Figuarts stuff I have still been buying kiddy toys now and then, but haven’t got around to doing proper reviews. Should I decide to post them, you might see some really old file names as I have kept these posts in draft limbo for a long time. I’ll see if I can think of a format for writing posts on kiddy toys.

12 thoughts on “MG 1/100 Delta Plus – Remodeling Explanation”

  1. Thanks for sharing the process and paint recipe 😀
    Now there are before-after photos, people can clearly see the difference.

    You even took proper photos of the snapfitted kit. I am always doing like only 70% snap, afraid that I will have a hard time separating the parts later XD

    1. It’s true that it will be difficult to separate the parts. I either cut down the pegs or leave gaps in the seams so I can pry them open later on. Sometimes the edges get damaged though, so I have to patch them up.

  2. Excellent looking model for sure! What Primer would you recommend for a Beginner? -As well as what other painting materials needed for a beginner?-

    Just looks incredible!

    1. Thanks! I would recommend primer only if you are doing airbrushing. Hand painting might actually dissolve the primer layer if you apply too many strokes to the same area.

      There are different types of primer available so it’s up to what you want to use it for. Coarse ones can cover up surface imperfections like scratches more easily, but the surface will become generally rougher. If you are aiming for a high gloss finish in your final product you should use fine primer, but you’ll have to smoothen your surface more as it will not cover up imperfections so easily.

      As far as I know, Tamiya names its primers quite clearly, while Mr. Hobby sells them in grades: 500, 1000, 1200 where 1200 is the finest. As for the brand to go, I’m not sure which is better but out of habit I’ve been using Tamiya Fine primer which feels similar to Mr. Surfacer 1200.

      You’ll also notice that primer comes in white and gray versions. As the underlying layer it will have a subtle effect on the colours you paint above it – white primer will generally yield a slightly more vibrant coloured surface. However, gray primer allows you to see imperfections more easily!

      There are many trade-offs to choosing the right type of primer and it depends on what you want to use it for. Have fun!

  3. I have the HGUC Version of this kit, and will be doing Hand Painting eventually-always been stopped due to the large amount of technicalities so to speak to deal with understanding painting types and all that to get the best result so it won’t look as if one screwed up the Model with the wrong type paint and bad methods used to paint-

    What type of Sanding tools did you use to cut down on the nub marks?

    1. Since I paint my kits, I simply use progressively fine sandpaper (400, 600, 1000 and higher if necessary). Otherwise I would recommend a sharp hobby knife to slowly cut down the marks. If done well enough there will be no white discolouration and you can go without sanding.

      If you are not satisfied and still wish to sand, you can do it but you might want to finish with a polishing compound so that you can get rid of the scratches without painting. Something like Tamiya’s rough polishing compound should be able to return the plastic to its original shine. Of course, sanding itself comes with a few tips and tricks again, that’s why I recommend the use of a sharp knife to avoid all the hassle. 🙂

      By the way, I feel inspired to write a series on topics like these…

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