MG 1/100 Sinanju Ver.ka

Just in time before school resumes next week! I must say I’m quite glad how it’s turned out. It’s not perfect though, clear colors require a lot more skill to paint, and I didn’t have access to waterslide decals, so I had to paint in some of the white lines where I couldn’t apply the dry transfers successfully.

Doing the shots like a toy review. Didn’t paint any of the panel lines because I expected to do this like an automotive model where the panel lines on the car body aren’t painted.

The head vulcans were masked before painting on the clear red. The gold trim was done using a reverse wash described previously.

I put the head parts together and couldn’t remove them when I realized the mono-eye couldn’t be seen. Too late to make any changes. I’m not sure whether replacing the eye with some Wave H-Eyes option parts would improve things. Wanted to try inserting an LED but I wanted to keep things simple, plus there wasn’t much space to store the batteries. In the end the paint made the mono-eye stuck in position so now it can’t move with the head.

Sleeves. The fingers were cut to individual pieces.

The parts for the inner frame were so well-fit and tight it became nearly impossible to move them after painting. The joints also scratched the paint easily. I had to give them another quick blast of gun metal after putting them together.

I’m inclined to believe the shoulder spikes are for decoration purposes and probably won’t stand up to a shoulder tackle given how they hang on the shoulders.

The moving parts for the backpack thrusters are almost stuck in position too. I don’t dare to move them for fear of scratching the paint.

I tried to do pre-shading for the white parts. They weren’t too obvious, and even harder to show up in the camera.

Some of the white lines were painted on. I think it’s quite obvious which ones are painted.

I did the same trick as with my Zaku II back then, documented in this how-to article and gave the ankle pistons some nice shine.

There is only one pair of pistons on this guy and I’m glad to see it isn’t completely hidden from view.

Handheld armaments.

Beam rifle with the grenade launcher attached.

Melee weapons. I forgot to paint them in my rush to finish up the kit. I actually intended to paint a little white, but it’s alright since I’m practically keeping him in a static pose.

The awesome shield/axe combo thing.

Sorry for the lack of action shots. The joints were simply too tight and I was risking some severe paint scratching.

I’ll try my best to remember the work sequence:

  1. Straight assembly, removal of mold parting lines and nubs [links 1, 2, 3, completed kit unpainted]
  2. Primed with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, additional sanding with higher grit sandpaper where necessary
  3. Painted inner frame with gun metal, all other colored parts black [link]
  4. Yellow parts and parts with gold trim painted gold
  5. All other colored parts painted silver
  6. Red armor parts painted clear red
  7. Reverse wash, masking for gold trim [link]
  8. White parts pre-shaded with black, then painted white
  9. Reassembly and dry transfers applied [link]
  10. Top coated with Super Clear Gloss UV Cut

The color scheme was kept simple:

  • Black: Black/(G) Pure Black
  • Inner frame and weapons: (G) Gun Metal
  • Silver parts: (G) Star Bright Silver over Black
  • Red parts: Clear Red over (G) Star Bright Silver over Black
  • Gold parts, gold trim: (G) Star Bright Gold over Black, (T) X-1 Black over (G) Star Bright Gold
  • White: White over Black pre-shade

All colors used are Mr. Color unless specified: G = Gaia Color, T = Tamiya enamel X- series

I was really happy to be able to finish it just in time. I was getting a little worried of biting off more than I could chew as I was still priming the kit on Christmas last year. The assembly and sanding took the longest. I wasn’t sure whether it was the sheer part count, complexity and the amount of parting lines, or it could be me multi-tasking. I actually marathoned quite a lot of anime while sanding the parts.

I think I spent as much money on supplies as the kit itself. I took a total of 4 resupply trips because I kept running out of paint. First was the primer, it took up over 3 cans, and I also rushed out to get emergency supplies to fix my scratched figma Luka. Then it was the inner frame at 2 bottles of gun metal, then the clear red at 3 bottles. Not to forget the 2 trips I made to buy the parts for my own spray booth. Looks like I’ll have to sell some of my figmas to reduce the total spending. I still have an unopened figma Mari. 2 more figmas are on their way, I’m really tempted to open one of them but it seems I may have to sell them both as well.

The painting was a challenge as well. Normally, painting opaque colors was just an easy matter of simply slapping them on without worrying much about over-painting. Having to work with clear colors made me realize how incompetent I was at using the airbrush. I needed to have precise control over the paint flow to keep the shade consistent across the surface of a part. There was also the issue of orange peel, where paint would dry before hitting the surface. I learnt that colors with a gloss finish would generally require more thinning, and a lower pressure to prevent the paint from drying in mid-air. I had to be more patient this time round by painting the clear colors with more passes or else the paint would orange peel or cause runs which would be a huge disaster.

I also tried different brands of paint this time. My verdict on Gaia Color? The Star Bright Silver and Star Bright Gold are simply superb for airbrushing and are worth the price premium. They are far superior to the finish you get from using Mr. Color. However they are more difficult to work with as the metallic particles seem to be very dense and settle really quickly. As for Gaia’s Pure Black, I didn’t really know how much thinner was ideal, so it turned out that I achieved a higher gloss using Mr. Color Black compared to Gaia Pure Black.

Anyway, thanks for watching me build this kit over the past month! I must have pissed off quite a few readers with my misleading posts and pictures, making you guys think I’m painting some awesome color when I’m just sticking to the default color scheme. Looks like I have to thank my trusty supplies and keep them yet again. The airbrush was throwing tantrums by spraying water onto my wet paint; luckily the damage to the paint job wasn’t serious and could be remedied.

31 thoughts on “MG 1/100 Sinanju Ver.ka”

  1. Ah~! My eyes~! The colours. They’re eye-poppingly good.
    Nice sheen to the kit, you’ve done.

    Thumbs up.

    ps. all another reason why I never paint (except the insides of the thruster bells) my kits, is that, you could hardly move them afterwards.

    1. Thanks! Well if I had to build a kit for play purposes I would leave it unpainted too. It’s too heart-breaking to see a paint job ruined by scratches and chipped paint.

  2. Wow, looks almost like the Titanium Sinanju, but like 3/4’s the price. =D
    I know you used another technique for the gold, but did you try to use a gold that’s light in color and then go over it with clear yellow?

    1. Haha on second thought I think the money spent on paint might have made it cost as much as a Titanium Sinanju except without the ugly nub marks.

      I didn’t do anything special for the gold, I simply used Gaia Color’s Star Bright Gold.

  3. Wow! i remember you said you havent worked on much gunpla lately at the beginning of this build, but man this shows you still got it! absolutely beautiful work 😀 the metallic finish looks sweet and perfect gold trims lol you invested a lot in this but from what i see, it looks like it was worth it ^^

    Is there any way to avoid chipping paint when doing custom colors? its a shame that doing more poses can damage all that hard work.

  4. i would curse to say how good this kit turned out.. lolx. freaking nice! your hard work did paid off.. the reverse wash was excellent.. and i’ve oso learnt a few tips from you for airbrushing, not tt i own one tho.. aha. still a lesson nonetheless..

    its definitely a drawback that the kit cant post much after so many layers of paint.. but WTH, it looks freaking cool jus standing there. my sinanju is still in the box tho.. im still deciding whether to go for a plain top gloss coat.. or a metallic red finish.. haha.. but confirm cannot win ur sinanju la.. ^^ good job bro.

    1. Haha thanks… Yea it’s too risky to scratch the paint. If it was unpainted the articulation would be great.

      There are many Sinanjus around with all sorts of colors/finish and all of them look great. It’s really up to what you want. 🙂

  5. great job on the paint and putting all the decals 😀
    haha, you would definitely ask how does Sinanju look with such small space for it’s eye. But then again since most MS by that time had panoramic view, I guess it’s safe to say they are no longer looking with their eyes anymore.

  6. Way to go! Did you use semi-gloss or glossy for the topcoat?

    I’m currently trying to get back to making gunplas so I’ll be posting something about it soon, hope you can give me some inputs when you visit my site =D

  7. wow O_O great job guy, love the the red, but I prefer glossy red over metallic. I really like the gun metal, especially on the gun! lol I look forward to getting my hands on this MG

    1. Thanks, I used clear red over silver, maybe the camera didn’t capture it well enough. I didn’t intend the gun to be the same color as the rest of the inner frame but I couldn’t be bothered to buy or mix another metallic color.

  8. great job there!! I remember being taught on a shiny but yet light gold, which is to use gloss silver and then go over with clear yellow but must control the yellow, so that it is not so deep and dark. Nice job!!! I would never ever paint a whole kit though. ‘Cause I make stop motion, and I don’t wanna see paint chipping off half way during the making^^

    1. Thanks! I did plan on using clear yellow over silver but found out about the gold paint which was more convenient. I was already using a similar method for painting the rest of the body – clear red over silver.

  9. two thumbs up! It’s really COOL!
    I’ll check your other wip posts on this, really appreciate you sharing the painting tips and the reverse wash.

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