Still Alive and Kicking

Just letting the world know that I’m still alive and kicking and waiting for HLJ’s shipment of decals to arrive. Maybe I pissed them off by ordering just one tiny item costing less than 1000 yen, and it isn’t the first time I’m doing this.

Since the previous update I’ve slowed down quite a bit and managed to paint all the armour pieces, give them some gloss coat, do the panel lines and get them all ready for decal application. It looks like it’s not going to happen very soon so I’m stalled. In the meantime maybe I should prepare my other metal parts so that they can be affixed once the armour pieces are done. By done I mean decals applied, flat coat given, any semblance of weathering effects I’m trying for the first time, and a final flat coat.

Oh, since it looks like there’s still a long way before this Zaku sees its completion, I thought I could post an sneak peek (hurr) at how things are coming together.

My favourite part of the inner frame is the legs because of the hydraulic pistons. I managed to make them shiny as chrome 😀

Replaced the stock verniers with aftermarket ones.

Couldn’t find any round molds on sale so I had to make do with the stock monoeye which was painted clear red.

The shop where I bought the Zaku from happened to have the pre-mixed paints for it on sale, so I took the easy way out and got them. Unfortunately, the CG24 light green is too dark and saturated compared to the plastic colour. Had to lighten it by adding a considerable amount of white. The darker CG23 green is also too dark, but I stuck with it since it wasn’t as bad as the light green.

Freshly-painted pieces.

Got the colour balance wrong in Photoshop but that’s not terribly important.

Post-shaded the parts too. It’s my second time (first time was on the Cherudim but it was too light to be noticeable) and I got it harsher this time round. I wished my airbrush competency was much higher. I had to repaint some of the pieces because I messed up.

I like this antenna much more than the anime-styled one. I find that the Zaku’s head seems a little too small and flat without the antenna. Also, I’ve drilled out the round marks all over the armour for mounting aftermarket rivets. You can see some streaks going down the head. That’s my first time at weathering a kit. I did it while doing the panel lines on the armour using Tamiya Enamel Brown + Black. Hopefully I don’t overdo it and make it look like a hunk of dirt that resembles a human shape.

I think I’ll drybrush the inner frame.


20 thoughts on “Still Alive and Kicking”

  1. wow… nice job!! haha. dun worry.. nv tot tt you were dead.. i noe how long and tedious paint jobs can be… take your time! =D how did you managed to get your piston so shiny chromed? i’ve always wanted to achieve that.. but nv managed. since the gundam marker chromed silver’s production has been stopped..

  2. Wah…this is quite a preview lol!! Man that is some sweet piston works! Can’t wait to see you install those metal parts in 😀

      1. Yes.. The imperfections won’t be as easily seen, unless you’re really looking for it and is holding it in your hands

  3. hello friend!

    u r doing a wonderful job!
    i want to know that what is the actual size of the piston.
    and how much they cost.
    i hope u will reply.

    thanking u


  4. hey i have afew questions about that paint. i know were to get it and i was thinking of ordering it so here are my questions

    can u paint it with a brush if so tell me with would be best brush from this link

    do you have to prep it or is it ready to go and also from this sight can u tell me what the best pait would be for the mono eye can’t find a clear pink

    and what kind of stickers are they i am hoping they are dry transfer but a big sheat like that i doubt it

    i hope you can help me and that u dont mind thx

    1. I’d recommend No. 2 for painting, and if you have extra money to splurge, a No. 0 for precision paint work. If not, just stick to the No. 2 and have some steady hands. I only have a No. 2-sized brush. I’m not an expert on hand-painting entire parts so I’m not sure if you should go with a large brush. I managed to paint entire pieces on my previous kits using a No. 2 size brush without brush strokes anyway. If you want to drybrush, just use an cheap old large brush because drybrushing wears brushes quickly.

      I believe you just need to keep the brush clean and store it in a vertical position for longer life.

      Apologies for the inconsistency in my review, I just wrote a write-up on how I did the kit and the colours used here:

      Basically, I painted a light layer of Clear Red so that it looked pink.

      And lastly, the decals were waterslides sold under the Gundam Decal line. I am a sucker for spamming decals on my kits so I’m love large sheets.

      1. is there any way i can contact u? i have afew questions to ask u about products and i dont want to wast space on dumb stuf here

  5. i have many questions to ask so i will ask you in sections

    first of all i will need you to search for this on hobby wave

    for the watter transfer stickers do you use a setter after you apply them?
    if so could u see if you could find it on the sight

    second painting the kit do u prime it if so with paint of spray paint, again can u find it on hobby wave

    have you ever used gundam pink because i want to get this result

    finaly can you use gundam paint strat out of the bottle

    1. Yes, I use both Mr. Mark Softer and Setter. In fact, if you click on “Decals” on Hobbywave, you’ll see them right at the beginning listed under Best Sellers. It’s pretty hard to miss since they are big and right at the beginning.

      I prime my kits with Mr. Surfacer 1000 and again you can find it by clicking “Sprays”.

      I would use Mr. Color Pink to achieve that colour.

      You should thin your paints before painting them, be it hand painting or airbrushing. Look under Paint Thinners – all of them can be used for Mr. Color/Gundam Color. There is no hard and fast rule as to what ratio. They always say thin it until it has the consistency of milk, or 50:50 for hand painting, 70 thinner : 30 paint for airbrushing. After a little experience, you’ll automatically get a feel as to how much thinner you want to use.

      1. thanks a lot sounds confuzing i gess i wont be painting my zaku verey sune im gonna order some SD zakus for practise but one thing what to you do exactly with mr, marker softer and setter maybe a how-to is an order

        1. Well there isn’t much to write on on how to use them because if I took photos of the steps they would all look the same!

          Just apply Setter on the surface before applying the decal, then after pushing out excess water and air, apply Softer over it. The decal would look wrinkled, but don’t worry and let it dry as it would sort itself out.

          Most people only use Setter on old decals that can’t stick very well. If there are air bubbles trapped after the decal dries, use a needle to poke them, then apply Softer on them.

          1. thanx a lot i apreshiate all the help u have given me i was probobly a bit anoying but i want to make shour i do it right
            ill stop filling this place up withmessages hop to see more work maybe some more zeon

            1. No problem! We’re all here to share our favourite hobbies and help one another. I’d love to build more kits but college life isn’t exactly very leisurely 😛

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