1/100 Cherudim Gundam Finally Complete!

gn-006wall 1200

A 1920 x 1200 wallpaper in the style of the professionals. (heheh)

After deciding not to procrastinate further, I spent just one day applying all the decals onto the kit. They weren’t as numerous as my previous Exia (which was GFF-style), but the ones on the Shield Bits were huge. This morning, after going home from a 2-hour lecture, I managed to quickly give all the parts a layer of flat top coat. The above photo was taken during the day when I rushed to snap a picture before leaving for another lecture in school. The wire from the head was erased in Photoshop.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

Front and back views. My failure at an attempt at shading was masked by the decals.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

Accessories include a GN Sniper Rifle II, Holoscreen attachment, one pair of extra hands (fist), one open left palm, attachment for Action Base 1, and 2 GN Beam Pistol IIs…

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

As well as 9 GN Shield Bits.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

I didn’t know my attempt at a close-up was so bad until I uploaded the picture. At least you can still make out the nice shiny head sensor.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

Holoscreen deployed for some Trans-Am Mode awesomeness.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

The Sniper Rifle mounts onto the shoulder hard point via a peg that unfolds from the back of the rifle. The shoulder hard point is capable of swiveling 180 degrees front and back but I don’t see any point in that.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

The GN Drive mounted on the backside. I used the hologram sticker that came with the kit.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

The clear green bits on the elbows, Holoscreen arms and knees.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

Torso/waist area.

Time for some action.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

Sniper Rifle in 3-barrel vulcan mode. The chest sensor is shining so brightly because I used a piece of silver tape on the back. If I did the same for the eyes, they probably could have shone as brightly too.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

Dual Elites.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

Some Strike Noir-esque action.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

Beam Pistols in axe mode.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

The bandage-y mess comes into place when the Shield Bits are deployed in formation.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

In the AD universe, you don’t need Newtype powers of doom or 3 times the speed to control a bunch of Bits.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

Pathetic attempt at motion blurring the Bits.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

Double team of justice. My 00 Raiser happens to be my first airbrushed model and back then the Gundam Decal sheet for it was either unreleased or sold out. It still isn’t in stock now.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

LEDs.

1/100 Cherudim Gundam

Solo.

In line with my previous reviews, I shall list the work process for this kit.

  1. Straight assembly and sanding to remove sink marks, nubs etc. (link)
  2. Modifications to head for accommodating LED and implementation of waist joint (link)
  3. Mr. White Surfacer 1000 (link)
  4. Sequential painting/seam filling for areas such as Sniper Rifle, lower legs, Beam Pistols
  5. Mr. Super Clear Gloss
  6. Panel lines
  7. Decals (Gundam Decal for Cherudim Gundam)
  8. Mr. Super Clear Flat UV Cut
  9. Painting and affixing of clear parts
  10. Soldering work on LED, battery and switch

The colour scheme was almost exactly a copy of the manual except that the colours for the joints and Sniper Rifle were mixed up.

White: Flat White + Neutral Gray

Green: Daytona Green + Flat Black + Flat White

Red: Red Madder + Flat White + Fluorescent Pink (small amount)

Gray (joints): Neutral Gray + Intermediate Blue + Black + Purple (tiny bit)

Gray (rifle): Midnight Blue + White + Intermediate Blue + Neutral Gray (my own addition)

Purple: White + Intermediate Blue + Purple

Clear Green: Clear Blue + Clear Yellow

Clear Red: Clear Red + Super Clear Semi Gloss

Clear Blue: Clear Blue + Super Clear Semi Gloss

As with the 00 Gundam, I skived and skipped painting the yellow parts.

Panel lines: Tamiya Enamel Paint Black

All colours used were from GSI Creos Mr. Color line. The company adopted a new packaging and has done away with the tab on the caps which made them so much easier to open.

The LED was purchased as a parts kit consisting of a 2mm square LED, a pair of leads, a CR1220 battery and its holder and a switch measuring around 5mm x 5mm x 8mm (including the leads). Plastic was gouged to make space for the parts. The battery is mounted underneath the head while the switch is in the underside of the backpack.

Bad news – now that school has started, I might not have sufficient time to continue my hobby of modeling. This could very well be my last model in a while, and if you do not see any updates, it means my hobby has gone on hiatus. It’s a difficult thing to do, but the course of life I’ve picked decrees that I have to do so. Despite having not airbrushed as many kits as I thought, I’ve still managed to complete many Gundam kits over the years and that itself brings more than enough satisfaction to me.

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7 thoughts on “1/100 Cherudim Gundam Finally Complete!”

  1. Hey dude,
    I was inspired to work on my first 1/100 model and I chose Cherudim Gundam after looking at yours. Mutilated mine as well while trying to build the waist joint which didn’t quite work and in the end I decided to glue it back on. Crappy. Hope you can share more tips on gunpla. Quick question: where do you get your supplies in sg? And I can’t find the PP that you got from Daiso for the love of me. Hope you start on your next model soon!

    1. I’m honoured to be an inspiration for someone. When I get back to building things I’ll try to post more detailed pictures of the nonsense I do to them. In my previous work on the 00 Gundam, I took some slightly more detailed photos. https://playevolution.wordpress.com/2008/12/14/1100-00-gundam-adding-the-waist-joint/

      I’m not sure what happened to your mod work but you might need some tools to get the job done. I get most of my stuff from Hobby Point or the shops at Sunshine Plaza.

      And don’t go to Daiso for the sheet PP. You should find sheet styrene or “pla-plates” from the shops I mentioned earlier. You can also buy them from Art Friend if you can find the Evergreen Models stand in some hidden corner.

      Good luck to your future mods! 😀

  2. hey question what brand of paint did you use with the model? ive been looking all over the internet and daytona green cannot be found. also what brand did you use?

    1. All the colors I’ve used are from GSI Creos’ Mr. Color line (unless otherwise stated). I get my paints from shops in my country so I can’t really help you if you get them online.

      I understand that some colors have different English names, so you might want to try Bright Green which should be the same as Daytona Green.

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